Blake Gray thinks the German courts need better tasters. I respectfully disagree. The courts found that Eisch’s claim of “breathable” glass was patently false and misleading. It doesn’t matter if the taste from their glass is different than others (I concluded they do have a distinct sensory profile).
Eisch makes it impossible to determine if the material they use is indeed contributing to the sensory perception. They will not provide (or sell) identical glasses made with “normal” glass for comparison (at least not in the US). Instead they suggest you use a similar glass. There are two major problems with this approach:
- The similar glass is not the same as the Eisch.
- It is nearly impossible to to do blind tasting with two different glasses since there are visual and tactile clues.
All of the comparisons I’ve seen are compromised by tasters knowing they we evaluating glassware and not using identical glasses. These are not blind tests. Michael Franz’s evaluation at Eisch comes the closest to a blind tasting but even this test is an explicit evaluation of glassware and under Eisch’s control and with glassware that is not available.
Given that is extremely far fetched that glass could be made so permeable that there would marked taste difference in 2 to 4 minutes. Judging from the press release the technical analysis team could not measure an uptake of O2 either (probably the plaintiffs had an independent lab measure dissolved oxygen).
The question that needs to be asked is what could they put in the glass to make a difference? The logical conclusion is a catalyst, most of which are heavy or rare earth metals. Not something I like having in my household (I don’t use lead crystal either). Eisch won’t disclose how it makes glass breathable and I don’t recall a prop 65 warning (California hazard’s materials warning) with the glasses so they may not have anything at all in them. Perhaps this is one of those “you can fool all of the people some of the time”. The human consciousness is a complex and wondrous thing but can be subtlety manipulated.
I’m glad the German courts sided with truthful advertising over perpetuating a wine “urban legend” but don’t let that stop you from enjoying wine in Eisch glasses you like what your mind says is happening. Just rest easier that knowing that it isn’t magic.